Haleakala National Park

Next, John and I took a forty-five minute plane ride from Big Island to Maui.  Flying is the only way to travel from island to island, as it is feared ferry boats will interrupt whales mating habits in the area.  Maui was much more similar to the stereotypical image of Hawaii.  Our hotel, the Fairmont Kea Lani bordered a gorgeous white sand beach and was surrounded by swaying palm trees in the ocean breeze.

Maui is also home to Haleakala National Park.  The Haleakala summit resides at 10,023 feet above sea level and is the island's highest peak.  It is a dormant volcano which has not erupted in over four hundred years.  John and I booked with a tour group to head up and see the infamous sunrise at the summit of Haleakala which means "house of the sun".  We were picked up from our hotel at 3 a.m. in order to make it to the summit before the crowds rolled in.  It was a long, cold wait but was ultimately worth every minute.  If you ever find yourself on the island of Maui, guided trip to the top is a must.  The tour we took provided breakfast both on the way up and down and got us the best spot at the top.  It also meant we didn't have to drive up the mountain roads in pitch black darkness.  It was obviously more expensive than if we were to do it on our own, but I would say definitely worth it.

Haleakala has a few hiking trails but much of the park is a biological reserve closed to public entry.  After getting up for sunrise, John and I were exhausted and more inclined to relax by our hotel pool than do much hiking that day.  We did go on a snorkeling cruise to Molokini Crater where we swam with at least nine sea turtles.  Snorkeling was on of our favorite activities on both Big Island and Maui!

National Park Ratings:
1. Acadia National Park
2. Arches National Park
3. Great Smoky Mountains National Park
4. Canyonlands National Park
5. Shenandoah Valley National Park
6. Capitol Reef National Park
7. Haleakala National Park
8. Mesa Verde National Park
9. Hawaii Volcanoes National Park*
10. Congaree National Park

*based on the section we saw

If you want more information on National Parks and what others think of them check out these blogs:
https://journey2allnationalparks.com/
--A comprehensive blog about all the National Parks, what to do and see in each and includes a rating system for all the Parks.

and

https://www.nationalparks.org/connect/blog
-- Run by the National Parks Foundation, provides travel ideas, the history of the parks and everything the foundation does for our National Parks.

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park

John and I recently got married on August 11, 2018.  We decided to go to Hawaii for our honeymoon because well one: it's Hawaii, and two: it's home to two National Parks.  Hawaii Volcanoes is on the island of Hawaii (Big Island) and Haleakala is on Maui.  We stuck to those two islands for our trip as we didn't want to be jumping around too much, and really wanted to be able to relax and enjoy our honeymoon.

We arrived on Big Island around 10 a.m. Hawaii time and headed to our hotel, The Grand Naniloa Hotel in Hilo.  The views from the airport to our hotel were not what we expected picturing Hawaii.  We would be driving next to lava fields filled with black volcanic rock as far as we could see, and then a few miles down the road would be rolling green pastures filled with cattle.  We could see the ocean from a distance, but Big Island was nothing like those Hawaiian postcards with white sand beaches and palm trees swaying in the wind.  Big Island is home to a number of active volcanoes and it was obvious the effect they had on the landscape of the island.  It was unique, but beautiful in it's own way.

Now as far as the actual Hawaii Volcanoes National Park goes, we were not able to see very much of it.  Most of the park was still closed due to the massive lava activity that began in April of last year.  The Pu'u O'o Crater on the Kilauea Volcano collapsed and the lava lake typically found on the crater floor began to drain through previously formed lava tubes underground.  The large amount of lava began opening fissures throughout the lower east rift zone.  The lava began flowing uncontrollably, destroying over 700 homes and transforming the landscape of Big Island.  The lava had stopped actively flowing by August, but majority of the park remained closed due to repairs and safety concerns.  A small portion of the park known as the Kahuku Unit had been opened, where we were able to walk through some old lava fields.  Some of these fields were from explosions that occurred in the 1800's which had just recently b
egun to regrow vegetation.  It was interesting to be standing in the middle of one of these fields and looking out, less than 100 yards away, at a grassy hill that had been untouched by lava.  The changes in landscape on this island were both drastic and sudden, like nothing I had ever seen before.

The bottom of the picture is a lava field formed over 200 years ago.
 Adjacent to the hill, which was untouched by the lava.

New vegetation growing out of lava rock.

John and I were disappointed we were unable to see everything this park has to offer by foot, so we decided to take a helicopter tour of the island.  There was no active lava flowing, but we saw the path of destruction left in its wake.  Houses and neighborhoods gone without a trace and five miles of new land added to the perimeter of the island.  We flew over many fissures still pouring out steam and our pilot flew us around the very edge of the famous Pu'u O'o Crater.  It was truly an unforgettable experience.

Lava flow

Fissure 8

New coastline formed by the lava.

National Park Ratings:
1. Acadia National Park
2. Arches National Park
3. Great Smoky Mountains National Park
4. Canyonlands National Park
5. Shenandoah Valley National Park
6. Capitol Reef National Park
7. Mesa Verde National Park
8. Hawaii Volcanoes National Park*
9. Congaree National Park

*based on the section we visited

Acadia National Park

After Great Smoky Mountains National Park, John and I decided it was time to see the park closest to home, Acadia National Park in Bar Harbor, Maine.  It was a six hour drive up from our home in Boston, but it was worth every minute.

Coastline of Acadia National Park

We arrived at the Harborside Hotel and Spa in Bar Harbor around noon and couldn't wait to get out and see what Acadia had to offer.  We knew we would not be disappointed after the views from the scenic drive up the coast.  We headed to the Ocean Path first, a 4.4-mile round-trip walking trail along the eastern shore of Mount Desert Island.  The deep blue ocean waves crashing against the sandy brown cliffs, topped with evergreen trees is an image we won't soon forget.  The Ocean Path is a definite must-see, and if you can I recommend getting off the path and heading down to the rocks on the edge of the water for even more incredible views.  About half way down the Path is an area known as Thunder Hole.  When the waves are just right, they create a sound of a distant thunder clap as they crash against the small inlet and pull back out.  The Ocean Path ends at Otters Cliff, a massive headland which offers spectacular panoramic views of the ocean and surrounding coastline.

Rocks by the water on the Ocean Path

We, of course, had to make the drive up to Cadillac Mountain for dawn, as it is the first place the sun hits every morning in the Continental United States.  Unfortunately for us, due to clouds and lots of fog, we didn't see much of a sunrise.  But, I'm sure we'll we back to Acadia in the future and hopefully the next time the weather will cooperate!

In the following days, we hiked up to Bubble Rock, it was a relatively short (1-mile) but steep trail with beautiful views of the numerous ponds and lakes in the area.  We also completed the Beech Mountain Trail, a 1.1-mile hike to the summit, where you can climb an old observation or fire tower.  Two of Acadia's most famous trails are the Precipice and the Beehive. Neither of these hikes are for the faint of heart or those afraid of heights.  They include narrow pathways on the edge of steep cliffs with iron rungs and ladders attached to the cliff walls.  John and I decided to work up our courage for these trails on the next trip to Acadia!

View from Bubble Rock Trail

Instead of horseback riding in this park, John and I decided to rent a kayak for the day.  We went out on Long Pond and paddled to Rum Island.  It gave us an opportunity to see the park from a new perspective and is one of our favorite memories from the trip!


National Park Ratings:
1. Acadia National Park
2. Arches National Park
3. Great Smoky Mountains National Park
4. Canyonlands National Park
5. Shenandoah Valley National Park
6. Capitol Reef National Park
7. Mesa Verde National Park
8. Congaree National Park

Congaree and Great Smoky Mountains National Parks

Congaree National Park

In August 2017, John and I embarked on our next National Park Trip, this time heading South to South Carolina and Tennessee.  We flew into Charlotte, North Carolina and immediately started the one hour and forty-minute drive to Congaree National Park in Hopkins, South Carolina.  We weren't sure what to expect entering Congaree, and what we got was a swamp and lots of bugs.  We headed up the walk way to the Visitor Center and immediately encountered two massive spiders. easily the largest either of us had ever seen.  We decided to walk along the boardwalk trail, where, when we weren't slapping mosquitos or gnats we were searching for remotely interesting things to look at in the swamp lands surrounding us. We had no such luck.  We finished the trail and tried to make the best of it, but unless you share our goal in seeing all 60 Parks, do not bother planning a trip to Congaree.  With that being said, we checked another Park off our list and continued on to Tennessee.

Great Smoky Mountains National Park

Great Smoky Mountains National Park straddles the Tennessee-North Carolina border and is the most visited U.S. National Park.  It averages 9.5 million visitors a year.  Popular options for lodging close to the park include Gatlinburg on the Tennessee side, and Pigeon Forge in North Carolina.  John and I chose to stay in Gatlinburg during our visit.  We decided to rent a small cabin up in the mountains (through homeaway.com) rather than somewhere on the main drag, which I am glad we did.  Due to the park's popularity, Gatlinburg is quite a tourist destination, home to Ripley's Believe it or Not Museums, arcades, candy stores and more gift/souvenir shops than you can count.  The sidewalks were constantly packed with people and the traffic was constant.  John and I were happy to retreat to our small, quiet cabin at night.

In case you were wondering why they're called the Great Smoky Mountains....

Great Smoky is a very drive-able park, meaning you can see many of its attractions from inside your car.  However, if you have the time I recommend getting out of the car and exploring the park on foot as well.  Our favorite hike in this park was the Alum Cave Trail.  It was a difficult, yet rewarding 4.4-mile hike, which leads you through a large rock arch on the way to the outstanding view looking out of Alum Cave.  We also planned on hiking the Chimney Tops Trail (the most popular hike in the park) but, due to a recent forest fire, the entire area was closed during our visit.  The trail up to Clingman's Dome is a short (.5-mile), but steep climb to the highest point in the park.  The views are breathtaking, but be prepared for crowds and difficult parking when you go.

Clingman's Dome

Cades Cove is a valley found within Great Smoky Mountains National Park which was first settled by European settlers between 1818 and 1821.  Cades Cave Loop Road provides visitors an opportunity to see first-hand pioneer homesteads, barns, churches and mills restored to their 19th century appearances.  The 11-mile loop road is a great way to spot white-tailed deer and black bears, as well.  Great Smoky Mountain is the largest protected bear habitat in the East and is home to over 1,500 bears.  While John and I were on a horseback ride in Cades Cove, a mother black bear and her two cubs casually walked across the trail right behind our horses.  We were not too far yet from the busy barn or road, but the bears were not phased by us or the horses. It was a surreal experience.   Great Smoky Mountains National Park is absolutely worth the trip, just plan on going into it with the mindset that it is going to be crowded.

Picturesque views from the Cades Cove Loop Road

National Park Rankings:
1. Arches National Park
2. Great Smoky Mountains National Park
3. Canyonlands National Park
4. Shenandoah Valley National Park
5. Capitol Reef National Park
6. Mesa Verde National Park
7. Congaree National Park

Capitol Reef National Park

The last stop of our Utah trip was Capitol Reef National Park.  After Moab, we drove 2 hours and 15 minutes West to a small town called Torrey, Utah.  We stayed at the Capitol Reef Resort, located less than a mile from the park entrance.  The area is pretty remote, but the resort itself was nice and the rooms were a decent size.  We had a balcony over-looking the Red Rock Cliffs, it quickly become our favorite spot to relax and enjoy the scenery.  The best part of the resort (in my opinion) was the paddock full of horses on the property.  They offered guided horseback rides along the surrounding red rocks and desert terrain.  It was such a beautiful and unique experience.  Since that trip, horseback riding has become one of John and I's favorite ways to explore a new park.

The view from our balcony at Capitol Reef Resort.

Capitol Reef's major attractions include the Water Pocketfold and Fruita District.  Fruita was originally settled by Mormons around 1879.  The town was small, never consisting of more than ten families at a time.  Walking through Fruita today you can find an old barn, a restored schoolhouse, a blacksmith shop and the Gifford Farmhouse.  This area found along the Fremont River quickly became known for its numerous and plentiful orchards, as well.  Compared to the surrounding desert, Fruita was somewhat of an oasis.  Unfortunately, when John and I were there in August, most of the fruit was not yet ripe enough to be picked.  We did however make a stop at the Gifford Homestead, where we picked up two delicious fruit mini pies.  They were delicious!

Capitol Gorge

The Waterpocket Fold is a 75-million-year-old warp in the Earth's crust.  Our favorite hike in Capitol Reef was Capitol Gorge, and 2.5-mile hike on the bottom of a dried up creek bed, through a part of the Waterpocket Fold.  We were surrounded by two walls of rock, which really makes you feel like you're the only ones out there.  John and I actually ran into two big horn sheep as we turned a corner, but they were quick to disappear at the sight of us.  We also did a 2-mile hike to Hickman Bridge, a large natural sandstone arch.  It was worth it, but not quite as impressive compared to our recent visit to Arches National Park.  Lastly, I would definitely recommend taking the time to walk the Capitol Reef Petroglyphs Trailhead.  It is a short boardwalk trail that offers a close up view of ancient petroglyphs.

National Park Ratings
1.  Arches National Park
2.  Canyonlands National Park
3.  Shenandoah Valley National Park
4.  Capitol Reef National Park
5.  Mesa Verde National Park

Mesa Verde National Park

Moab is located on the Eastern side of Utah, about fifty miles from the Colorado border.  Due to its close proximity, we decided to add Mesa Verde National Park to our stay in Utah.  Mesa Verde is in the Southwest corner of Colorado, about a two hour and forty-five-minute drive from Moab.

Mesa Verde was home to Ancient Puebloans and consists of over 4,700 archaeological sites, including 600 cliff dwellings.  The Puebloans originally built small houses on top of the vast mesa, where they farmed and hunted.  However, over the years they began building homes in alcoves beneath the rim of the mesa.  Cliff Palace is the largest and most famous cliff dwelling in the park, consisting of 150 different rooms.

Cliff Palace in Mesa Verde National Park

Almost all of the dwellings in Mesa Verde require a ranger-guided tour to enter.  John and I toured the Cliff Palace, which cost $3 and lasted about an hour.  It was fascinating walking among these ancient structures, thinking about the lives of the people who called them home so many years ago.  This park is filled with such history, it really is an incredible experience.  The Spruce Tree House is one of dwellings you can go on your own and came highly recommended to us; however, it has been closed indefinitely due to previous and potential rock falls.  The only problem (we found) with visiting these dwellings is the actual navigation of them.  They are quite literally on the side of a cliff, and require maneuvering up and down wooden ladders, while trying not look down the 7,000 feet below.  Neither John nor I are too keen on heights, so we kept cliff tours to a minimum.

Although the history found in this park is remarkable, our favorite part of Mesa Verde was the Spruce Canyon Trail.  It is a 3.1-mile hike descending around an down into the canyon and then back out.  The views of the canyon were gorgeous and it was great way to see the park from another perspective.

Spruce Canyon Trail

Check out this website if you are interested in learning more about the history of Mesa Verde National Park!

National Park Ratings

1.  Arches National Park

2.  Canyonlands National Park

3.  Shenandoah Valley National Park

4.  Mesa Verde National Park